Friday, May 5, 2023

Broome Day TWO, Bus Tour and Markets

Broome day 2

We started the day with a 3 hour bus tour around Broome. They took us to Cable Beach, Simpson's Beach, Gantheaume Point, and Town Beach, but we opted out of the Town Beach stop because I'd already walked there that morning and I was antsy to get to the Courthouse Markets before they closed at 1pm.


Even though we had our own rental car, I planned the bus tour because I wanted guidance on the best places to see as well as get stories and information you can't get from a brochure. 

Like this:

Houses here don't have rain gutters. They are useless in the intense rain season. 

Houses here also don't have letterboxes. They often get water logged. A few years back they considered putting in letter boxes but the people decided they enjoy the social experience of going to post office to get their mail. 

Cable Beach got its name because of the 1889 communication cable connecting Broome to Indonesia, and subsequently the rest of the world. The Courthouse is the original cable house.   

This region is called "The Kimberly." When you drive on the red dirt roads, it's called a “Kimberly massage.” 

There are not many roads this far out in rural Australia. When a road get's damaged, the options for Siri to reroute you are very far. The Fitzroy bridge went out this past January, and anyone who had gone east to Darwin got stuck and had to drive all the way to South Australia, over to Perth, and back up to Broome. Yikes! That would take about 100 hours of driving, without the stops! 

The regional prison, just a stone's throw from our hotel, is called the "Broome Airbnb." 

Did you ever wonder why Australia's sport colors are green and gold? Henry happened to ask this question just last week and today we got our answer. They are inspired by Australia's National flower, the wattle, that has green leaves with bright gold blossoms. 

The bus guide told us all about the Pearling Industry

Tides in Broome vary dramatically from high and low. They change over 8 meters in depth! All that new water and moving in and out every day carries a lot of nutrients that nourish the oysters. Before the plastic button came along, Broome produced 95% of the world's pearls.  

Diving for pearls is risky work. Locals could do it without equipment in the shallow waters, but the shallow areas quickly became depleted of oysters so the industry had to move to deeper water with weighted diving suits. 

Many men from Asia came to work, but the conditions were dangerous and many died from the bends, diver's paralysis, shark, jellyfish or drowning. There are cemeteries in Broome designated for the Chinese and Japanese immigrants who died there, some of them only a week or so after arriving. 

The “Intombi” boat is one of the original pearl luggers. 

Gantheaume Point


The lighthouse here no longer needs an attendant. Only the fireplace remains of the caretaker's house. There is a private residence there where a man bought the land and built a house and pool for his wife who had arthritis very bad. The salty ocean water was good for her pain. He carried her everyday down to the pool. That is LOVE. Now the house is vacant. It was up for sale at some point but was only in a price range for the extremely wealthy. 



The man who brought his wife here for the therapeutic properties should have used this natural pool instead of building one. But I suppose it would have been hard to carry her here. 


Just behind Henry were a few steps down to a flat area that looks like a perfect jumping point right into the ocean. 



This was at high tide. If it was at low tide, we’d be able to walk quite far out to see dinosaur tracks. Instead they have some replicas up near the path. 



These are dinosaur track replicas. The actual ones can only be seen at very low tide. The difference from low to high is about 8 meters! 


Simpson’s Beach

This is where the harbor is for exports. 


This is called Morning Glory. I can see how it looks similar to the Morning Glory weed in Utah, but the leaves and blossoms are 3-4 times the size. 

This looked like a mini version of cliffs in Southern Utah. 




We found a green frog that seemed too far from the trees. We rescued him and returned him to higher ground. 


Henry got to see this frilled-neck lizard run across the lawn on its back legs at the Japanese Cemetery and crawl up the tree. 

Courthouse Market

Just after exiting the bus tour, I met Ahmat Bin Fadal at the Courthouse Markets. He sells silk scarves his wife makes. He told me he’s been in Broome for 63 years and used to do pearl diving. After hearing the stories on the bus tour, I felt like I’d just met a celebrity! 



That’s him in that clunky scary looking diving setup

 


He said he nearly died once. I’m sure he nearly died everyday because it was a dangerous job. It was really cool to meet him! He told me his story was online so I looked it up. 


The Courthouse Markets had excellent local art and photography. They even had a vegan food truck that had delicious lentil "meatballs" and rice. 


This beautiful large Boab tree was at the Courthouse Markets

 

I bought a Staircase to the Moon photo from Damien Kelly. I also bought a few photography prints from a guy named Matt Deakin. He moved here from England. He said he meant to only come to Broome for a weekend holiday but fell in love with it and decided to stay. I can totally understand. 


After a quick lunch, we went to the Malcom Douglas Crocodile Park. 



Broome, WA Day ONE

When we came to Australia we wanted to show Henry all the things he didn't get to enjoy when he was here last time. He was only 2 and didn't travel well. He really wanted to go to Uluru, deep in the central outback of Australia. As I started looking into planning the trip, I realized it was going to be massively expensive because travel out of Perth is not at all as affordable as it is from Melbourne. Flights were going to be very expensive and all of them required flying all the way east to Melbourne or Sydney first, and then backwards in to Uluru. I just didn't want to do it. And then I recognized that Henry likes thrilling experiences more than scenic natural wonders. 

He also wanted to see crocodiles like Allen and I saw in Cairns in 2016. Another expensive flight to the other side of Australia. 

So we made a deal. I found a crocodile park in Broome, Western Australia. Camel rides looked like another fun thing offered there. It also had the element of novelty, since Allen and I had never been to that quadrant of Australia before. I love seeing something new for the first time. 

Uluru will still happen someday, but we'll wait until he's older and more equipped to handle the long walk in the heat. And maybe when he's a bit older he'll be more ready to absorb the awe of its size and the significance to the aboriginal people there.   

I intentionally planned it as late in the year as I could so it would be cooler temperatures there. In the summer months Broome can get over 100F/40C. We planned our trip for May, and the temps were still about 90-92F/32-33C. (I talked to someone at the Broome visitors center and mentioned it was too late and hot in the day to take Henry to the playground and she said, "It's really not hot." To her, I totally grant that. But we hadn't adapted yet.)

I also had learned about Staircase to the Moon, which happens when the full moon rises over the very low tide, reflecting its light on the long stretches of exposed mud. 



So let’s step into “Broometime,” the term locals use for the unhurried pace of life there.

Broome Day 1

To maximize our time, I chose an early morning flight, and a late night return. We left the house at 5:45am! Henry was thrilled to fly Qantas. They serve good snacks.


We arrived in Broome at 10am with plenty of time to explore before the sunset camel ride that evening. 



Henry needed a solid breakfast so we went to Maccas for pancakes, then checked out Cable Beach while we waited for the hotel room to be ready. Cable Beach was named the third best beach in the world last year by TripAdvisor! And since the other two are not in Australia, that means this is Australia's BEST BEACH!




I've been to 10 of the first 30 Best beaches in Australia! Most of them are in Western Australia. (Have I mentioned how much I love it here?)



What set it apart for me was not just the beautiful color, but the steady water. The slope of the ocean floor is so slight that the waves just roll, they don't cap and smack you. It looks so still, even a long way out, like it's just been painted the same shade of light blue. It doesn't really get darker in the distance.


It was hot. Henry needed a nap. He slept in the hotel while Allen and I went across the street to Black Stump Art Gallery. It had some beautiful pieces by local artists!


I want to learn this traditional art technique. 


This Piece used the alcohol ink technique Nancy Cadjan taught me to look like the local beach.


We met Georgie Dunn who painted this gorgeous piece of art. 


It was a watercolor swath of oranges and reds and with little ovaled rectangles drawn over in a spectrum of colors. Some were gold paint. The base was done when she lived in Uluru. The top layer was done when she came to Broome. Absolutely stunning. But out of my price range.


Then Henry swam in the pool. That perked him right up. Only one jet of the spa was on so all force went through it, sending him floating in a circle. 



Then it was time to ride the camels into the sunset. The "address" for where to go said “north end of Cable Beach past the rocks.” The rocks are beautiful. And it’s so covered with shells that I forget to look up. 








The camel ride was so peaceful and the rhythm of the camel was calming. My hips were stiff when I got on and totally limbered up by the time I got off. Henry and I rode on Ariel. The camel behind us kept trying to move forward. Her name was Mara. Apparently she’s used to walking second in line so she was wanting to move up. Our camel was best buddies with Isaiah further back, but they had been cutting up lately so they had to be separated. Allen rode the first camel. The moon rose over the bay on our left while the sun set over the water to our right. 


We all loved it.




One of the camel workers noticed Henry’s BYU shirt and revealed she was from Utah. She’s backpacking for a year while taking classes on line at the UofU.


For dinner, Allen went in to a chip shop that looked not busy based on the parking lot, but it was. The person at the counter was new. And was messing things up for the cook, who was not new. Allen noticed the cook was being very patient and kind to her while she learned. 


As Henry finished off the chips, he said, “thank you for planning this trip.” 


No offspring has ever said that. 



It was a long and great day. And we had three more coming! 


Now for Day TWO. 



Friday, April 28, 2023

Exchange Rate

The exchange rate from American dollars to Australian dollars appears to be in our favor. It only takes 67 US cents to buy $1 worth of goods in Australia. So when we walk into a store, we mentally take 33% off all the prices to get an idea of what it will cost in American dollars. 

$100AU = $67US (this rate fluctuates all the time but has hovered around this number while we've been here.)

But it is actually a little better than that. The price displayed in Australian stores *includes* the tax. In the US, we'd have to add about 8% for sales tax at the register.

Something that is labeled as $100US actually costs $108US or $161.19AU.

So if I account for the sales tax I *don't* have to pay here, I can actually shave off another 8%(almost) from the labeled price. 

$100AU / 1.08 to find the pre-taxed amount of = $92.59AU = ~$62US

So compared to how I evaluate prices in the US, I can actually estimate .62 times the labeled price in Australian dollars. 

That makes it pretty fun to spend money here. 

But should I be so thrilled? It depends on what I'm buying.

I've heard Aussies moan (winge) about how off balance the exchange rate is. They actually think it isn't a good time to make a trip to the US and have to spend their money there. It can be deceiving because they are both the same denomination of "dollar." So let's look at the actual price of items here versus there for an accurate evaluation.

Apples $5.90AU/kg = $2.68AU/lb = $1.66US/lb

Loaf of bread $4.30AU = $2.67US

Chicken breast $11AU/kg = $5AU/lb = $3.10US/lb 

Dozen egg $7.00AU = $4.34US (I used to pay $1/dozen, but prices have changed to be similar, but still less)

Ben and Jerry's pint $14.50AU = $8.99US (double the cost in the US!)

KFC crispy chicken sandwich $5.95AU = $3.69US

McDonald's soda drink $2AU = $1.24US

600mL/20 oz. soda at the store ~$4AU = $2.48US (this is probably double the cost of the US)

Petrol/gas is $1.80AU/liter = $6.80AU/gallon = $4.59US/gallon (I didn't adjust for tax here because prices in the US also include taxes in the labeled price)

Movie ticket $26AU = $17.42US (also, not adjusted for tax. Utah theater is about $13-14.)

Organix Shampoo 385mL,  $23 = $14.26US (more expensive than US)  

All of the above is pretty much what the cost is in the US(except where noted). So there isn't really any benefit to having US dollars here, and some items are more expensive.  

But Tim Tams! They are marked at $4.50AU but can often be on sale for $2.25AU = $1.39US. That is definitely less than the $5 I pay in the US! But it's an imported good. That's to be expected.

Fish and Chips are an entity unto themselves. I can get a large basket of thick chips (fries) for ~$6-8AU = $3.72-4.96US. This is not an order of "large fries" like in the US. It is 3-4x as much food. You could actually make a meal of it. TWO people can make a meal of it.

And we have. Too often. 

Clothing is cheaper, at least in the stores like Target and Kmart. I wonder if it's because most things are made in Asian countries and Australia is just closer to them so shipping costs are lower. 

I bought a nice calf-length cardigan for only $15AU! That's $9.30US!

I also found a dress I like for $30AU = $18.60US. And it has sleeves! No pockets, though. 

Other household items you'd buy at Target or Kmart are cheaper here. I bought a nice store brand pressure cooker here for $62AU = $39.44US, and I'm quite certain it is the same as the Cuisinart I bought in the US for $89US. But if I actually bought the Cuisinart brand here it would be in the $169AU ($105US)price range.

Costco is interesting. I can find familiar items there, and they tend to cost less than items in the grocery store, but are still more than what I pay in the US and aren't really worth the long drive to get them. 

Chocolate chips at Costco here are $19.99AU = $12.39US. I can usually get them for $8.99US in Utah. 

A bag of tortilla chips are $9.99AU = $6.19US, but the bag is about half the size of the one I'd get in the US. 

Hotel prices and plane flights already vary widely, but are consistent in price when traveling between countries so those things are not impacted by an exchange rate. Clothing and household goods at Target may cost more in the US, but those are not things you're really buying when you go on vacation. You'll be buying food and venue entries, and some of those things are considerably cheaper in the US. 

So Aussies don't need to worry about the exchange rate. It only appears imbalanced because our countries use the same denomination of dollars, but the actual cost is consistent between the two countries. 

All my Aussie friends need to come for a visit! You don't even need to worry about the price of a hotel. I have a spare room you can stay in for FREE!


Wednesday, April 26, 2023

ANZAC at Henry’s School

Henry’s school held an ANZAC memorial service today since yesterday was the public holiday. 

As the students walked to the assembly, a man was playing the bagpipes. 


The principal started the service with only brief remarks, and then had two students read the history of the events of April 25, 1915. Their version was more complete than the one I heard at the city service yesterday and they did an excellent job. 

As the Reveille was played on trumpet, two students reverently walked together to place a wreath at the bottom of the flagpole. Then we had a moment of silence. And then as the Reveille was played again, the flag was raised from half-mast to full height. 



(That's Henry on the back row, right side.)

A school choir sang the "Spirit of the ANZACs" Anthem. (Lyrics below)

Henry was able to lay a flower on the wreath at the flagpole.

Each child was invited to bring a flower to place at the base of the flagpole to show respect. 

The thing that struck me is that the children from kindergarten to grade 6 were 100% quiet and respectful. The entire time! There was absolutely no whispering or disruptions. None. At all. The respect and attention was very touching and impressive. 

I noticed the same thing yesterday at the adult service. There were a LOT of people in the park. More than I expected at 5:45am. And they were all quiet. The reverent mood persisted as everyone left smoothly. They were giving out coffee and ANZAC biscuits afterward and there was no surge or press to hurry up and get the free food. And there wasn't even a big sign thanking some business for donating the food. It was just there for the purpose of the people, not advertising promotion. 

I love it here.

Poppies are an emblem of remembrance on ANZAC Day. 


“Spirit of the ANZACs”
He's a drover drifting over Western plains
He's a city lad, a clark down Flinder's Lane
They're in the trenches at Lone Pine
And on the Flander's firing line
A willing band of ordinary men
He's all of them
He's one of us
Born beneath
The Southern Cross
Side by side
We say with pride
He is all of them
He is one of us
He's a pilot on a midnight bombing raid
He's an Able Seaman on the Armidale
She's a nurse in Vietnam
They're on patrol in Uruzgan
Sons and daughters rising to the call
She's all of them
She's one of us
Born beneath
The Southern Cross
Side by side
We say with pride
She is all of them
She is one of us
The spirit of the Anzacs
Proud and strong
Spirit of the Anzacs
Will live on and on and on
He's all of them
He's one of us
Born beneath
The Southern Cross
Side by side
We say with pride
He is all of them
She is all of them
They are one of us
They are one of us

They are one of us  

Tuesday, April 25, 2023

ANZAC Day

 "Let us all be upstanding."

Today is ANZAC Day in Australia. We attended the predawn memorial service in the city park. I was very impressed how many people came at such an early hour to show respect for those who have died or suffered in any way in their service to defend freedom. 



The speaker told the story of the Australian and New Zealand Army Corps harrowing experience on the cliffs at Gallipoli on April 25, 1915. Then, before he read a poem that has become the traditional words of ANZAC Day, he wanted everyone to stand. Instead of “will the audience please rise?” or “please stand,” he said, “let us all be upstanding.” 


It struck me as a request that can apply long after we assemble here today. We should honor their sacrifice and be upstanding by the way we live our lives. We should be upstanding in the way we treat our neighbors. We should be upstanding in the way we engage--and even debate--in the free government they fought to defend.


For the Fallen 

(fourth stanza)

by Laurence Binyon


They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old;

Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.

At the going down of the sun and in the morning

We will remember them.


Lest we forget.